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Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915, by Katherine Strand Holkeboer
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Kathering Strand Holkeboer offers step-by-step instructions for making a huge variety of period costumes - gowns, tunics, head-dresses, jackets, robes, breeches - from the early Egyptians to the beginning of the 20th century.
- Sales Rank: #97339 in Books
- Brand: Brand: Drama Pub
- Published on: 1993-04
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 11.00" h x 8.50" w x 1.25" l, 1.43 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 342 pages
- Used Book in Good Condition
Most helpful customer reviews
113 of 116 people found the following review helpful.
Deceptively simple, infinitely functional
By cynth
At first glance, a costume historian would not be impressed by this book's oversimplified patterns and lack of detail. Its renderings of the human figure are cartoonish, and no instructions for esoteric closures and construction are provided.
However, the Holkeboer directed her opus toward the theatrical costumer: an individual who must cobble together a volunteer staff, construct garments for modern bodies, and adapt to quick-changes between scenes. The patterns are necessarily basic; the cuts are nearly authentic; and the suggestions of embellishment design save the costumer much time. This book is not some tome to be displayed on a shelf; it belongs in the studio, its spine creased, its cover dog-eared, and its pages scribbled with measurements and notes. This book is a workhorse. An added bonus is its illustrative use of labels for describing many weird terms, among them: simar, barbette, picadils.
I have found in no other book of scaled patterns but this one, the instructions for THREE methods of enlargement: optical projection, grid method, and radial projection. This book also includes headgear, specialty costumes like kimono, ecclesiastical garb, and a LION! This book also prevides a wonderful equity of both men's and women's clothing which is unfortunately not represented in the body of dramatic literature. (Why are there so few women's roles? But I digress.)
The introduction and final chapter contain essential information on fitting and draping (remember: you must add your own seam allowances) and millinery and corsetry. I'd have given this book another star if I felt that it did justice to constructing corsets -- these items are too complex to build from Holkeboer's 1/8" = 1" scale. But she is absolutely correct in providing undergarment patterns if only to emphasize that they are necessary for achieving a true period look. Also, this book needs either a durable sewn or spiral binding to lie flat for usage. The glued softcover is impractical.
This book cannot function as the only book in a costumer's library; supplement your collection with costume books on period styles to achieve variety in design. As far as PfTC being indispensible to a costume shop, I don't recommend buying a copy of this book; buy TWO!
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Great resource for experienced sewers
By Carla Padron
As the title of the book states, this is more for theater costumers than historic reenactors. However, I've found it to be a good resource. Rather than redraft or enlarge the patterns, I take a basic pattern that is fit to the wearer already (often a commercial pattern) and use this book on how to modify the shape. I like the fact that there are illustrations of the completed garment, along with the patterns.
43 of 44 people found the following review helpful.
An invaluable resource.
By M. E. Volmar
This book is the most comprehensive, single-volume collection of historical patterns (from Ancient Egypt through 1915) available today for men's and women's costumes. While the pattern designs are very simplistic, present little detail on closures or embellishments and present only general instructions on construction, they are functional and very easy to make, represent nearly authentic cuts and effectively achieve the intended essential look for their specific period.
Each pattern in the book is presented in three sizes, and for each individual piece of a complete garment a label is often attached, giving its historical name and a brief description of its appearance or use. As a bonus, patterns for specialty costumes (fantasy, religious, Chinese, Japanese, and animals), undergarments, hats, wigs and masks are included, and its Introduction explains, in a step-by-step format, costuming techniques such as enlarging patterns, fitting designs, and draping.
This book can also serve, with just a little imagination, as an infinite source of ideas to help you create your own patterns, although you will have to refer to other books on period specific costumes to give your work finishing details like ornaments, trims, and other accessories.
The only weak point of the book is its glued soft-cover binding, which is completely inadequate for the spine-creasing use to which it's sure to be subjected.
If you either work for the theater or just enjoy making your own costumes, you will find this book to be an indispensable part of your library.
--Reviewed by M. E. Volmar
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